Lockouts · Woolwich
Seized & Jammed Lock Opening
It is the coldest morning of the winter and the key goes halfway into the side door and stops.
In plain words
Most seized locks can be saved, and keeping your existing hardware is the aim. A cylinder that has stopped turning is usually recoverable with cleaning and fresh internal parts. A failed tailpiece is a small component swapped without touching the rest of the lock. A bolt bound by the door needs adjustment, not new hardware. Replacement is the answer for a plug or shell that is worn, damaged or hollowed out by corrosion beyond what cleaning and parts can fix, and then the new cylinder is matched to your keyway and finish and, where possible, keyed to the key already in your pocket.
How the visit goesThe old mortise lock on the front door of the house turns the key halfway and stops with a dull clunk. It has been getting harder for months, and the brass key is starting to show a bend.
Seized & Jammed Lock Opening
How the visit goes
Strike plate, bolt pocket and seal
The frame side gets as much attention as the door side. The locksmith looks at where the bolt meets the strike plate: scuff marks on the plate's edge, a bolt pocket shallower than the roughly twenty-five millimetres a deadbolt needs, paint or filler that has crept into the pocket, and weatherstripping thick enough to hold the door proud of the frame. A dab of chalk on the bolt end shows exactly where it lands. These findings explain a lock that works with the door open and jams when it is shut, and they point to a chisel, a screwdriver and a strike adjustment rather than to anything inside the cylinder.
Thawing ice and clearing salt
Ice is melted, never chipped. A lock de-icer or gentle warmth on the cylinder face turns the frozen meltwater back to liquid so it can drain, and the key is then worked until the plug turns. Boiling water is kept well away, because it refreezes inside and can crack cold brass. Salt crust is flushed out with contact cleaner and the plug is dried thoroughly before any lubricant goes in, since salt and moisture sealed under lubricant keep corroding. The cylinder is then dressed with the lubricant specified for that product, applied once everything is dry. If the weatherstrip has frozen to the door, that bond is released and the seal wiped.
A door that closes without a fight
If the door was the cause, the hinges, strike and seal have been set so the bolt has room. Keeping it that way is a seasonal habit: each spring and fall, try the lock with the door closed and no pressure on it, and snug the hinge and strike screws if the door has begun to drop. Wood keeps moving with humidity, so a door that swells in August may need a touch on the strike in September. A door that suddenly needs a push to lock is telling you early, while the fix is still a screwdriver and not a seized bolt.
Seized & Jammed Lock Opening
In the van
Replacement tailpiece or cam
Penetrating lubricant
Lock de-icer
Plug follower and repinning kit
Electronic contact cleaner
Seized & Jammed Lock Opening
What affects the quote
Upgrades you choose on the spot
A keyhole cover, a storm door latch, a reinforced strike or a new deadbolt are optional extras some people add while the locksmith is there, each shown as its own line.
The drive to you
Driving time is part of every call, and a property at the end of a long rural road is a different trip from one a few streets over.
Inside door or outside door
A jammed bedroom or office privacy lock is generally a lighter job than a weather-exposed exterior deadbolt, and a mortise lock on an interior door sits between the two.
What to have ready
- Has anyone sprayed oil or another product into the keyway?
- Is there another door you can use in the meantime?
- Do you have a spare or original key you could try?
Seized & Jammed Lock Opening: questions
QuestionsCan an old mortise lock in a century home be serviced rather than replaced?
Often, and keeping the original hardware is usually worth trying first, since it fits the door and suits the house, though condition and the availability of matching parts decide whether a repair is realistic. The case comes out of the door edge, the decades of dust and hardened grease are cleaned away, a broken spring or worn hub is replaced with a matching part, and the contact surfaces get fresh grease. If a bit key or a cylinder has worn, a new key is cut or the cylinder rebuilt.
Why did my lock seize when it worked yesterday?
Locks rarely fail in a day; they fail slowly over months and announce it in a morning. Grit and old lubricant build up in the pin stacks until one cold night thickens them past the point the key can overcome, or a door that has been drifting on its hinges finally pins the bolt after a humid week. The wiggle you needed last month was the warning. A lock in this state is usually cleaned or adjusted back to health rather than replaced.
Why do locks jam more in winter?
Two reasons meet in the same season. Freeze-thaw weather sends meltwater into the keyway by day and freezes it by night, and cold thickens any old grease or oil that has been sprayed into the pins. At the same time dry, heated indoor air shrinks wood doors so bolts move in their pockets. Doors on the shaded or windward side get the worst of it. A dry lubricant, a keyhole cover and a check of the strike after the first hard frost take care of most of it.
