Lockouts · Woolwich
Broken Key Extraction
Overnight the deadbolt froze, and this morning the key would only turn partway.
In plain words
Two facts shape the job before the locksmith arrives: whether the door is locked or unlocked, and whether any of the key is showing. A fragment that protrudes can often be gripped and drawn straight out. One flush or deep needs extractors worked in alongside it. If the plug turned before the key broke, it has to be eased back to its resting position first so the pins line up and release the blade. A locked door means the extraction is followed by opening the lock; an unlocked one means securing it is the priority. Either way the door ends up locking with a key that fits.
How the visit goesYou were locking up on the way out when the key broke in the lock. Now the door is unlocked, a piece of key is jammed in the cylinder, and you were already running late for work.
Broken Key Extraction
How the visit goes
What has already been tried
Before choosing a tool the locksmith asks what has gone into the keyway since the break. Tweezers often push a fragment deeper; a screwdriver tip can bend pins; a drop of glue on the other half bonds to nothing useful and leaves a film that has to be dissolved before extractors will slide. A second key jammed on top of the first is a common find. None of this is anything to be embarrassed about; it just changes the plan, and knowing about it in advance means the right solvent, a plug follower or a spare cylinder is in the van before work starts.
Taking the cylinder apart to free it
Occasionally a piece is too deep, glued in, or wedged past the pins where no extractor can reach. On a serviceable, removable cylinder, the lock is serviced from behind: removed from the door or padlock (a rekeyable padlock is normally unlocked first), its cap or retaining clip taken off, and a plug follower used to push the plug out while the top pins and springs stay in place. With the plug in hand the fragment is tapped out from the rear, the pins inspected, and everything cleaned before reassembly. Where the cylinder is non-rekeyable, damaged or will not free this way, a replacement cylinder is the alternative, explained first.
A key cut from the pattern, not the wear
You leave with a key that was cut to the lock's original specification rather than traced from the tired blade that just failed. That difference shows every time you use it: it seats fully, lifts each pin cleanly and turns without a wiggle. Two or three copies made from that fresh cut give you spares that are as good as the first. The old bent or thinning keys that shared the ring are worth retiring now, because a key that has started to bend has started to crack, and the next one to snap will be one of them.
Broken Key Extraction
In the van
Lock de-icer
Plug follower and cap tool
Spiral key extractors
Replacement cylinder or deadbolt
Key blanks and code cutter
Broken Key Extraction
What affects the quote
Where the key broke
A house deadbolt, a knob, an older mortise case, a padlock, a car door and a vehicle ignition each call for different access and different care, and the quote follows the hardware.
How deep the fragment sits
A piece standing above the cylinder face is the simplest case. One flush with the face or deep behind the pins takes longer, finer work with hooks and spirals, and the quote reflects that.
Rekeying other doors to match
If the cylinder ends up rekeyed or replaced, matching the other exterior locks to the new key is priced per cylinder, and simplest while the locksmith is already there.
What to have ready
- Do you have a spare key that works, or the key code tag from the lock?
- Did the key turn part of the way before it snapped?
- Had the key been needing extra force or a wiggle lately?
Broken Key Extraction: questions
QuestionsHow do I stop keys breaking in future?
Look after the lock and the key ages slowly. Keep the cylinder lubricated with the product its maker specifies and free of grit, and have a binding door adjusted, since resistance raises the risk, though a worn, bent or fatigued key can still fail under normal use. Retire copies that have gone thin or kinked instead of straightening them. Cut spares from code, and rotate them so one key is not doing all the work. Take the ring weight off a car key. Small habits, but they add years.
Will the lock work again once the piece is out?
In most cases yes, and it is tested in front of you with a key that fits. The inspection after extraction is where the honest answer lives: if the pins, springs and cap are sound and the keyway is clean, the cylinder goes back into service with a fresh key. If wear or damage caused the break, that is explained and a rekey or new cylinder is offered as a separate choice.
Part of the key is sticking out. Can I just pull it with pliers?
If a good length shows and the plug is at its normal rest position, a firm straight pull sometimes works. The risk is pushing instead of pulling, or twisting, which drives the piece deeper and can bend a pin. If it does not come on the first gentle try, stop there and leave it for extractor tools, which grip the cuts without loading the cylinder.
Related services
- Business Lockout ServiceThe key went in stiffly, turned a quarter of the way, and came out in two pieces.
- Break-In Damage Lock RepairYou came home to find the front door standing open.
- Seized & Jammed Lock OpeningIt is the coldest morning of the winter and the key goes halfway into the side door and stops.